ELDO
RESTAURANT
Eldo is fully booked, and after one evening, you’ll understand why
When Eldo was still in its soft-opening phase back in May, I stopped by for a first taste. Last Thursday, we returned to Antwerp’s South district, this time for a proper evening service. It was the second seating of the night, and the restaurant was packed. A good sign, but above all, a confirmation. In just a few months, Eldo has found exactly the place it set out to create. Relaxed, generous and, most importantly, seriously delicious.
Starting the evening the way it should be
We begin with a few dishes to share. The little bites with ricotta, artichoke and green olive are wonderfully fresh and creamy, with just the right touch of salinity. Then there’s the Mangalica pork ham. Beautifully marbled, intensely flavourful and exactly the kind of product that needs very little intervention. Add some good bread and a glass of wine, and the tone for the evening is set.
It perfectly reflects what chef Thomas Dhooghe, who previously worked at Pure C and Le Pristine, wants to achieve with Eldo. The fine-dining technique is clearly there, but it never becomes an end in itself. No tweezer-driven cuisine, just recognisable ingredients, excellent sauces and flavours that make an immediate impression.
Coquelet, fries and a whole lot of appetite
For our main course, we share the coquelet, a farm-raised chicken generously served with herbs and seasonal vegetables. Juicy meat, beautifully browned, full of flavour and exactly the kind of dish that makes sharing at the table such a pleasure. Alongside it come hand-cut fries with fresh mayonnaise and a crisp green salad. Nothing complicated, but everything is exactly as it should be.
The wine list also deserves a mention. Sommelier Daan Guelinckx has put together an extensive selection that manages to be both approachable and interesting. Alongside familiar names, there are plenty of bottles for those who enjoy exploring a little further. A particularly nice touch is the strong presence of wines from La Nebbia, the wine importer with a particular focus on Piedmont and other characterful Italian wine regions.
Can I stay a little longer?
Subtly embroidered on the napkin are the words: “Can I stay a little longer?”
In a way, that sums up Eldo perfectly. As the tables remain full and the lively hum of conversation gradually grows louder, nobody seems in any hurry to head home.
I finish with perhaps the most classic dessert test of all: a dame blanche. Good vanilla ice cream, warm chocolate sauce and whipped cream. No reinvented classic, just a perfect dessert. Sometimes, that’s exactly what you want.
When we first visited during the soft opening, you could already sense Eldo’s potential. A few months later, the conclusion is clear. The atmosphere is relaxed, the food is excellent and the hospitality is genuine.
Aad Approved!
Eldo